Zahav Home is out Today
Chatting with Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook about their new cookbook
Friends,
Today I am excited to share a cookbook recommendation – the second one from Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook, who released Zahav in 2008. This vibrant Israeli book is one I’ve cooked with so much that its pages are wrinkled, puckered and stained from overuse; the sign of a great book.
Today, sixteen years later, with 23 restaurants in three states, five James Beard Awards, and three highly acclaimed cookbooks between them, they’re releasing Zahav Home: Cooking for Friends & Family (Harvest/HarperCollins Publishers; $40.00).
This book is similar in heart to Zahav, with all those beautiful bright Levantine flavors, but this one is a reflection of how two fathers approached cooking for their families during COVID (since Zahav opened, their families have grown from one to seven children). It’s a book that reflects the a passion for cooking and the practical need to think and plan ahead.
So in addition to recipes like French Onion Labneh with caramelized onion, chives, dill; Tehina Caesar Salad with Gutsy Croutons; Phyllo Borekas with Swiss Chard & Feta; Shira’s Potato Kugel - parsley, dill, scallions; Braised Lamb Shanks with Sour Cherry and Cola - coriander, cumin, caraway, and sour cherry juice; Grilled Tuna with Harissa & Tehina - coriander, cumin, caraway; and Pistachio Sticky Buns (!) — you’ll find tips and hacks, from strategically stocking a pantry to utilizing commonly underused kitchen tools (like the freezer). The book also offers various “Method” visual aids to take readers step-by-step through essential recipes and techniques for any home cooks’ repertoire.
I had a chance to chat with Mike and Steve about the book a few weeks ago; we talked more about the inspiration for doing a second cookbook (trying not to lose their minds during COVID), how to get kids to try new things (put french fries on salad), and what to make for the High Holidays (some good recipes here!). I also asked (begged) them to open Zahav in NYC (their answer is below). They’ve also shared their fabulous recipe for Israeli Couscous and Meatballs at the end of this post as a special treat for paid subscribers.
Andrea: Why write Zahav Home?
Mike and Steve: Our love for home-cooking really flourished when we got to cook dinner for our families every single night during Covid. We hadn’t had this much time in our home kitchens since before we opened Zahav which at the time, was about 13 years. So in order to not to lose our minds during that time outside of the restaurant kitchen, the natural place we both turned was the kitchen at home, and talking about what we made for dinner last night — and that’s where the idea for the book began.
What’s the inspiration for the book, and who is this book geared towards (ie - folks with kids, the average home cook, etc.)
This book has a pretty big focus on getting food on the table on a weeknight, coupled with some fun projects that could keep you occupied on the weekend. We tried to really mirror what people’s lives are like, which is harried, but with the times when you want to slow things down.
What ingredients and equipment do you definitely need in your house to make these recipes?
What makes this book have the word “Zahav” in front of it is definitely the pantry, which we share our pantry right at the start of this cookbook. Whether it’s spices, or Soom tehina, relatively ordinary recipes are transformed with the Zahav Pantry.
Can you each share a favorite recipe and a story that’s meaningful that relates to it?
Mike: I love the Pittsburgh Wedge Salad. It’s just a really special big entree salad that has a number of appealing ingredients for the kids. The french fries on it, for instance, can be a powerful incentive in the dinner department. It is also simply a delicious ode to a great city.
Steve: Freekeh with Chicken, Almonds & Asparagus is basically one of the first dishes I remember eating on Mike’s menu at Marigold Kitchen (nearly 20 years ago). It reminds me of the early days and I could eat a whole pot of it.
With 7 kids among the partners, what is your meal planning strategy for cooking for kids? Any favorite kid-friendly eats? Do you believe in leftovers? Do you think it’s okay for kids to say no to trying things, or are you a “give it a try and if you don't like it dont eat it” person?
Mike: The Israeli Couscous & Meatballs is a big favorite. In our families we all eat the same thing and the rule is you just have to try. It is their salvation to desert. Getting them involved in the cooking process generally makes them more likely to embrace it at the table.
Steve: In our family we talk about food cost, because I hate wasting food. Neither of us throw food out - it just kinda carries and the recipes in this book speak to that idea.
Will you ever open Zahav in NYC? (PLEASE?)
No.
Your soft serve is so good — is there a way to make that at home? Or something similar?
We recommend grabbing some Tillamook, Alden’s, or Drumsticks.
Or perhaps a soft serve concept is in the works? What’s next for you guys?
This Fall we’re opening Jaffa Bar in Philadelphia which will be an Israeli oyster bar with Philadelphia spirit, as well as Aviv inside the 1 Hotel South Beach, a restaurant that will bring together ancient cooking methods with the modern energy of Miami and Tel Aviv — a restaurant in the making since we opened Zahav.
For Rosh Hashannah what’s your menu from this book?
Challah (make it round and feel free to add raisins); Kale Salad with Pomegranates; Short Ribs with Amba-Passion Fruit Glaze (like sweet and sour brisket); Cabbage with Amba & Tomatoes as a side; Cauliflower Chraime for a veg main; and Baby Apple Cakes.
Israeli Couscous & Meatballs
Makes about 75 small meatballs
This dish is very nostalgic, and the kids love it. Cooking pasta entirely in sauce is a great technique, but it can be hard to do with certain shapes. Couscous is the perfect medium for cooking pasta all the way in sauce and results in a rich and flavorful dish. For extra flavor, we cook the p’titim directly in the sauce.
FOR THE MEATBALLS
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