BREAKING: Ruthie's Reinvented as an American Wine Bar
Chef Chris Cote brings new life to Marc St. Jacques' neighborhood restaurant
Ruthie’s, the family restaurant opened by Marc St. Jacques and the team behind the beloved (and flawless) Barbete, has reconsidered its opening concept and reopened as Ruthie’s, a natural wine bar, with a menu that leans into midwestern Americana from chef Chris Cote, who was previously at Colonie, Noma, Aska and most recently Pearl Supper Club.
If you know Chris, you know he’s a talent, and he’s on top of his game here, doing incredibly impressive and fun things in the kitchen. It’s a menu that’s got some kitsch and whimsy, and that draws out audible gasps of “Let’s get that too!” from surrounding tables.
Bowls of umami dusted popcorn are sprinkled with salty shards of crispy fried ham, possibly the best bar snack ever. (Okay, Brooks’ homemade Snack Mix at Superiority Burger is a close second). Fluffy Campfire Biscuits are served with peanut butter and pickled peanuts; Potato Skins are crisped up and loaded with sour cream onions and potato salad; Blackened Shrimp come with huckleberry jam.
You must have the Cheese Fritters with ranch seasoning; they are what might happen if a mozzarella stick married cornbread, but instead of mozzarella these are made with a nutty combination of American, muenster and fontina. Four golf ball sized fritters to a plate, they come on top of a shimmering tangy, tart, high heat salsa verde that should be bottled and delivered to my house weekly. Please.
I also loved the green goddess crudité platter, served with assorted summer vegetables and heart-shaped waffles instead of more pedestrian carbs (it works people) for dipping into a pot of gorgeous emerald sauce, bright with herbs and sharpened with horseradish. Chris, would you please add this sauce to my weekly delivery. Thank you.
A string of little button mushrooms are threaded onto skewers and grilled, sauced with a black coffee shoyu and topped with shiso. Asparagus are blanched and chilled and served on a crunchy bed of gem lettuces and doused with lemony dill dressing.
Let me say this about Chris’ Meatball Sub; it may cause a quiet riot. A toasted brioche hero is filled with a neat line of four fat meatballs that taste of soy, maple, and mustard, all snuggled up under cover of bright pickled cucumbers. Fabulous. There’s also a roast chicken for two, with turnips and a molasses grill sauce.
Speaking of grill, for Summer Sunday evenings, Marc will launch a $30 weekly barbecue night with guest chefs. The line-up includes friends of his like Victoria Blamey, TJ from Claro, the chefs from Cafe Spaghetti and Ernesto’s, and more. Stay tuned for more information.
Oh, wait, this is a wine bar and Marc has hired a fantastic sommelier from Canada, Lydia Roussel, who has assembled an interesting list by the glass that includes natural wines in white, orange, and red from Portugal, France, Chile, Argentina and Spain. I wasn’t familiar with many of the wines, but I found several I liked. Lydia is wonderful at helping you find the wine that works with your dinner and your mood. Actually, I’ll say that about the entire staff here; they are a wonderful team: attentive and warm, just terrific.
Ruthie’s Wine Bar is located at 241 Smith Street. Reserve on Resy or just walk in, there’s a nice big bar and a beautiful polished wood communal table with swivel stools ideal for eating and drinking and making new friends.